A Weekend at the Bangala

A few weeks back, Upaasna from Team Urbanaut had the chance to visit & stay at The Bangala, Karaikudi and she had this to say.

For the uninitiated, Bangala is a pioneering heritage enterprise that paved the way for an exploration of Chettinad. Reopened in 1999 by Meenakshi Meyappan, part of the MSMM family who still owns the bungalow, this homestay has stayed iconic for over two decades for a reason. Apart from the beautifully kept gardens, spacious rooms with old-style furniture, extensive verandas shaded by green chick blinds, and black-and-white photographs of days gone by, the most special standout aspect that you can’t help but enjoy and try not to get too used to is the famously celebrated Chettiar hospitality. 

Whether it’s the ever-smiling staff in crisp veshtis who don’t let you say no to second servings, the akkas with fresh malli-poo in their hair working around the property or Mr Arun, the head of the kitchen who carefully oversees every meal; the Bangala has all the frills of a luxury property with the soul of a home you can’t wait to visit again.

“You walk into the Bangala but you waddle out of there” is a popular saying here and I truly understood it after my 4th consecutive incredible meal. Inspired by Meenakshi Meyappan’s curations and recipes passed down through generations, authentic Chettinad cuisine here is celebrated like nowhere else. Their residential cooking courses are so popular that it’s not uncommon to see established chefs from India (and interestingly enough, Japan) come here to train all the time. 

It’s a shame people don’t make their way down South to Chettinad, it’s truly a curious traveller’s delight. 

Chettinad; where history & heritage converge

Once home to the Nattukottai Chettiars, Chettinadu (Chettinad), a special region in Tamil Nadu was once little more than a fabled land. Despite the current condition of this land that has eroded over time due to natural calamities & lack of care - many of the palatial residences, Chettiar mansions and its alleys still exude undeniable, timeless charm.  

A stroll through Chettinad transports you to an era where history & heritage converged beautifully. The preserved Chettinad mansions that stand today are architectural marvels that are lasting testaments to their once-great opulence and wealth. These houses are full of fabulous imported embellishments like pillars of Burma teak, chandeliers of Bohemian crystal, Belgian mirrors and even tiles from Italy. Apart from the architecture, this area is also popularly known for the stunning & functional aathangudi tiles, Chettinad cotton sarees and antique stores till the eye can see filled with enamelware & beautiful heirloom pieces from old Chettiar homes. But even without all these amazing reasons, a mouthwatering Chettinad yellai sapadu (banana leaf meal) alone is worth the visit.

Chettinad may be overlooked as a destination, but the rewards are ample for the ones who do make the journey to this unique region. You might be well-advised to drive so you can take back your shopping spoils easily!

Chettinad Heritage & Culture Festival: Edition 3

To celebrate the uniqueness of the region & spotlight the beauty of Chettinad heritage & culture, the Chettinad Heritage & Culture Festival is back this year after 2 successful editions. 

A four-day festival celebrating traditional Chettinad culture & heritage including dance, music, lectures, walking tours of centuries-old temples & Chettiar mansions, exploring the craftsmanship of Aathankudi tiles & Chettinad cotton weaving and not to forget, the famed cuisine of Chettinad itself. 

The pass includes an all-inclusive 4-night stay at the iconic Chidambara Vilas in Karaikudi, meals & beverages, access to all events, performances including a Carnatic evening with T.M Krishna, a Bharatanatyam performance by Aniruddha Knight & ensemble, a panel with food historian Khir Johari and journalist Vikram Doctor & lots more! 

September 27th to 30th,All-inclusive passes starting at INR 1,35,000

Learn more here

Looking for travel recommendations in Tamil Nadu? Here are our curated recommendations in Pondicherry & Chennai. You can also find our top eating spots in Pondicherry recommendations here.

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