Read all about [Author]'s return to Ladakh, sixteen years after their first visit. A summer trip built around the Sa Biennale, with meandering days spent in the Balti village of Turtuk, the quieter reaches of the Nubra Valley, and Leh's most storied boutique hotels. If you've been thinking about a trip to Ladakh, get in touch with the team at Urbanaut for tailored recommendations and special rates.

What brought you back to Ladakh after all these years?

Superlatives don't do justice to Ladakh. Sixteen years ago, a visit to this mystical, magical destination changed my life in a way I couldn't quite define. This summer, I made it back, and find myself once again at a loss for words to describe why I feel different. I guess I'll just have to make routine trips in the quest for deeper understanding.

What made early August the right window?

The Sa Biennale gave me a reason to travel in early August. While the art itself was underwhelming (just my opinion, don't @ me), the site-specific installations allowed me to visit some stunning areas like Alchi and Nurla. When the land itself is other-worldly, human-made art can't quite compete.

Take us to Turtuk.

Turtuk, a village that belonged to Pakistan until 1972 and was only opened to tourists in 2010, beckoned with its Balti heritage and border stories. A newly opened boutique hotel proved the perfect jump-off point for meandering hikes through serene villages, visits to the LOC at Thang village, and walks through apricot orchards with the delectable fruit literally falling from the trees to sate weary hikers.

And the Nubra Valley?

Nubra Valley has gained a reputation for being overrun with tourists chasing rides on hapless Bactrian camels. But nearby Sumoor is quieter, with majestic views of Stok Kangri. This might have been the most incredible place I've stayed at anywhere. Exquisite food with creative local influences, a private riverfront, views that make you stop in your tracks at every turn, and luxurious, tasteful interiors to delight the aesthete in you.

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Where did you end the trip?

Leh, the capital, boasts a number of excellent boutique hotels, some of the finest dining you'll experience, and a vibrant old town and market area for the curious explorer. We chose to stay slightly away from the centre of town and would highly recommend this approach for anyone seeking solitude.

For curated recommendations for your next Ladakh trip, get in touch.

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